George Selvester

©George Selvester

The Cromarty Boat Club’s ‘Commodore’s Cruise’ which I introduced a couple of years after the club was formed in 1996 has been increasing in popularity every year.

The success of the 2002 trip through the Caledonian Canal to the West Coast strengthened my resolve to go for Orkney in 2003. A meeting was called in January and nine boat owners agreed it was Orkney or Bust!  With cancellations and dropouts en route, only three boats were left to sail all the way to Orkney. The following is from my log of that voyage.

Saturday 7th June 2003
Jock Wingate in his Heart of Gold, who has spent the night alongside in the harbour, is up and about, just finishing his breakfast. Alex Davidson, his crew, has already arrived and they are just about ready for the start.

I too had left Fat Sam in the harbour overnight to make it easier to get aboard with our gear. Gavin Meldrum and his crew Rod Duncan arrive about ten minutes later and are quickly out to their mooring to prepare Polar Wind for the trip. My son Steve and I are ready for sailing by the time the last crew, Peter Baxter and ‘Pug’ Peterson of Norseman arrive. Another boat, Wigeon, skippered by Bill Paterson with crew of Neil Brooker, has left an hour ahead of us.

There is no wind at all and the water is mirror-like, the reflections on the water of both the North and South Sutor look spectacular. When we live in such close proximity to natural beauty we tend to take it for granted; however, mornings like this have a way of reminding you how lucky you are to be living in such surroundings.

Log reading 4397.5. Forecast winds light to variable SW. Course to steer from Buss Bank.  030 degrees.

The trip to Lybster is pretty boring as we have to motor most of the way due to the lack of wind. For a period of around an hour a slight breeze gets up from the south-west which allows me to use my spinnaker; however this is short-lived and we are soon back to the Suzuki and its five horses.

All the boats have spread out a bit but we remain in sight of each other all day, arriving at Lybster at about 15-minute intervals, with the exception of Bill Paterson who has arrived an hour before any of the rest of us. Fat Sam passes the light at the end of the pier at exactly 1530.

High-sided hills around Lybster mean radio signals are non-existent within the harbour area so anyone needing to contact home has to climb the steep road up to the village in order to get the use of their mobile phones. It is a strange coincidence that the signal seems to appear right outside the nearest pub, Bayview Hotel. As we are so close we might as well have a drink. What a hard life this is!

After a couple more beers we are all feeling the effects of such an early start and one by one make our way back to the boats.

I am in bed by 2200.

Log Reading :4433.1 Distance covered today 35NM.

Sunday 8th June
The facilities at Lybster are excellent since the opening of the Heritage Centre: £5 gets your boat in the harbour for the night and the use of the showers/toilets and washing machine/drier. It was on our previous visits here that we got the idea to install similar facilities at our tower in Cromarty.

After everyone is suitably washed and fed, the two boats (Heart of Gold & Norseman) that are returning to Cromarty slip their lines and bid us farewell.  Fat Sam, Polar Wind and Wigeon set sail to Wick at 0830.

We are forced by very light winds to resort to the motors again. We arrive at Wick at around 1130, replenish our petrol tanks and fill all the spare cans we have in case we have to motor all the way! On completion of this important task we all feel that we deserve a pint and a meal and so retire to the Moorings pub.

We leave at the agreed time of 1530, in the hope that we can reach Duncansby Head at a favourable state of the tide, and this I reckon to be at 1930. The wind has picked up slightly, enough to fill the spinnaker, but again without much headway so once again we have to resort to motor power.

Polar Wind and Fat Sam arrive ahead of Wigeon and note that there are lobster pots dotted around Duncansby Head, which give us a good indication of the strength of the tide. We are just managing to hold ‘station’ against the tide if we sit at half throttle. This way we can face back toward Wigeon and monitor his progress. We watch as he grows from a dot on the horizon to the recognisable form of a Snapdragon 21. We started out together and we are now going to cross the dreaded Pentland Firth together! We are now 45 minutes later than we had anticipated. We pass into the Pentland Firth at 2015.

With the distinct lack of wind we do not get any of the famous ‘overfalls’, but can plainly see all the currents and eddies that make this stretch of water so dangerous. The tidal atlas has been studied very carefully and we are able to negotiate the crossing with very little difficulty at all. However, there is the occasional tidal race that picks up the boat and moves it several feet in a sideways motion. This makes us a little concerned at first but we seem to get used to it quickly and soon learn to spot the dodgy bits as we approach them.

We head in the direction of Lother Rock with the Pentland Skerries two miles off to starboard. As we get closer to Lother Rock the tide then continues to take us, carrying us midway between South Ronaldsay and the island of Swona. At this point the log on Fat Sam is registering 4.5 knots and the GPS tells me we are doing 8.5 over the ground.

I feel that as Commodore I am responsible for the safety of the crossing and I fuss like a mother hen with the other two boats. I seem to be getting further ahead of them all the time and am concerned.  At one point I feel they are both too close to the island of Swona and warn them that if they do not steer toward South Ronaldsay they are in danger of the tide carrying them round North Head and down to the ‘Merry Men of Mey’. Their response is a change in direction from Wigeon with nothing said and a similar change of course from Polar Wind followed by a radio transmission, which I regret to say I am unable to decipher.

After passing the entrance to Widewall Bay it is relatively straightforward and I round Hoxa Head just before 2200. Here again there are lots of lobster pots, the difference being that they have very long lines attached. I am weaving in and out of them hoping that my propeller will not foul on these ridiculously long lines. Once clear, I look back to see the other two coming round Hoxa Head and I radio a warning about the pots.

2215: Steve goes forward to drop the anchor in St Margaret’s Hope Bay and within half an hour we are all rafted up together and having a celebratory drink. I have no idea how long we stay up as I cannot recall going to bed.

Log Reading:  4466.7 total distance covered today 33.6 NM.

Monday 9th June
When I wake up in the morning I lie for a long while, in no hurry to rise. The last two days have been quite long and I feel quite tired, even after a night’s sleep. I eventually get up around 0800 and am amazed to find the cockpit strewn with empty Guinness cans and wine bottles. I clear away all the rubbish and make a cup of tea during which time the gas runs out.

I inflate the rubber dinghy and go in search of somewhere to buy gas. Just my luck: nearest stockist is a good sail away in Stromness. I ferry all the crews back and forth from their boats to the shore and we spend a couple of hours walking round the few shops in the town and send some postcards home.

Eventually Neil’s ‘nose’ for finding an open hostelry works well and upon finding the bar of the Murray Arms Hotel open and dispensing the nectar, we enter and introduce ourselves to the co-owner and barmaid, Barbara. The bar is dotted with memorabilia of the wrecks that are widely scattered in Scapa Flow following the scuttling of the German Fleet. There are also various pieces of diving equipment. There is a strange object on the shelf behind the bar which, Barbara explains, is to test the lung strength of divers, and she asks us if anyone would like to try it out. Steve and I both smell a rat and look at each other, then decline. Rod and Gavin make no move to try it and Neil sits with a knowing smirk on his face. Poor old Bill, unaware of what is going on, says he will have a go, takes a deep breath and blows into it with all the power he can muster. A white cloud envelopes him as the rest of us fall about laughing. I think Bill is blushing, but nobody can really tell as his face is completely covered in talcum powder!  We do not stay too long in the bar (I think Bill is eager to go). We set sail for Stromness at 1230.

Wind is better than it has been of late at around force 4, and although it is from the north-west and against us, we sail up Scapa Flow. Polar Wind chooses to sail to the north-east of the Flow (perhaps to look at the marker buoy for the wreck of the Royal Oak which was sunk in Scapa Bay). Whatever the reason, he is chased away by a pilot boat to allow a tanker to manoeuvre.

Bill is now out of sight, having pressed on again under power as I do eventually, in order to get the gas before the shop shuts. This becomes a real race against time. As I motor toward Stromness Harbour, Neil comes on the radio to give me directions and within ten minutes I am tied up alongside Wigeon. It is now 1650 and I have to find the shop with the empty gas bottle in my hand. I make it with a couple of minutes to spare.

I wander back to the boat (via the Royal Hotel) in time to witness Polar Wind berthing at 1800. The wind has changed and he manages to sail all the way up to the harbour entrance. Well done, Gavin! This is just as well for he is still having problems with his engine.

I am sure the reader can guess where we go next. I am so tired though and retire to bed at 2030, very early for me.

Log Reading:  4480.5 total distance covered today 13.8 NM.

Tuesday 10th June
I sleep right through until 0815, which is very unlike me; I must have badly needed the sleep. We decide upon a rest day and stay over for another night here. We visit Kirkwall by bus where I buy a new battery as the old one is not holding its charge. We have to sample a couple of the bars as we are in the capital, and then get the bus back to Stromness. Neil and Steve decide to cook a meal for everyone, which turns out to be decidedly average.

We have earlier made an arrangement with the Ferry Inn to use their shower facilities at £1.50 per head, and we feel it is only fair that we spend some time in the bar afterwards. We have all agreed that today was worthwhile as we needed the rest. We sit down to plan for tomorrow.

With Bill’s continuing engine problems they set out a couple of hours ahead of Gavin and me. They are also planning to go down through Gutter Sound on the inside of the island of Fara; this is a slightly shorter route. They then intend dropping anchor in Long Hope Bay to await the arrival of Fat Sam and Polar Wind at the Sound of Hoxa, having sailed back down the Scapa Flow, where we would join up and cross the Firth again together.

Wednesday 11th June
By the time we surface, Bill and Neil have gone.

The forecast for today is ideal for crossing the Pentland. It is 1030 when we slip anchor and head out into Hoy Sound. Now it’s the turn of Gavin’s engine to play up. He has just informed me that he sees no signs of water coming through the cooling jacket. Luckily the wind is sufficient for him to sail out of trouble. The tide in the sound is against us and is trying to force us out into the Atlantic. We are making a little headway but it is painfully slow. The wind is very good; we are on a reach doing 5 knots across the water but only half a knot across the ground.

I move in as close to the shore as I dare to cut down the effect of the tide and radio Gavin to tell him to use this tactic. It takes almost an hour to reach Scapa Flow but by the time we do, the wind has strengthened considerably and swung round to be on our stern. We are making excellent progress now and the tide is no longer a problem. I set a course to sail close to the ‘Barrel of Butter’, which is about one third of the way across the Flow.

With Steve now at the helm it gives me a chance to look at the charts and tidal atlas again, just to double check I have the timing right. I take a closer look at the route Wigeon plans to take and realise that at the time they intend coming out of Cantick Sound they will run into a severe tide race with overfalls. It might be okay in light winds, but the way the wind is rising I think it might be prudent for them to make for Widewall Bay on South Ronaldsay and wait for us there. I try to radio but can’t raise them so get them on the mobile and explain the situation. I also tell them about Gavin’s outboard problem and promise to keep them up to date with events. They are going to up anchor and go to Widewall Bay as I suggested.

As we approach the ‘Barrel of Butter’, Steve is having difficulty keeping us on a straight course; the boat wants to veer off to starboard. I have to take a full reef in the main and take in half of the rolling foresail. Once this is done, we are still doing 7-8 knots. I reckon the wind strength to be at least a force six, gusting seven, perhaps even more!

All the diving boats are hurrying for sheltered water.

Bill phones back to say they are just entering Widewall Bay and that the wind is, as Bill puts it, “piping up”. Another call from Gavin tells us that Rod has the engine in bits in the cockpit and does not think he can rebuild it when the boat is tossing about. He is however attempting it. I ask him to keep me informed as we have to make a decision whether or not to go for a crossing today. We also have to tell Bill what we are doing.

At 1230 Gavin radios again to say that the task of rebuilding his outboard is impossible in these conditions; we have to find shelter to complete the job. St Margaret’s Hope is probably the safest bet now. I call Bill on his mobile, telling him of the change of plans once more. They don’t sound too pleased about the whole situation but when I remind them there is a pub at the anchorage, they quickly accept the inevitable and up anchor once more and head round to St Margaret’s Hope Bay.

Steve goes forward to drop the anchor in the bay and I note the time at 1350. Gavin and Rod get down to putting together their engine whilst Bill and Neil go off in search of a petrol station. Once all the chores are completed, petrol stowed away etc, the engine on Polar Wind is given a test run and as it seems to be okay we retire to the Murray Arms for the now mandatory pint.

We are all back on board by 1700 and make our meals in the separate boats, exchanging the odd derogatory remark to each other across the water, there being only 35 to 40 feet between each of the craft. We have a party aboard tonight with Gavin bringing the bottle of gin that had been left on board the boat when he bought Polar Wind.  There are copious amounts of the said gin, lager, Guinness and Export dispatched and our hearty laughter must sound strange to the landlubbers ashore. When it comes time to retire I am quite surprised that Gavin and Rod do not end up capsizing their dinghy on the way back to their own boat.

Log Reading 4493.9 total distance covered 13.4 NM.

Thursday 12th June
Wind is very light again this morning and is forecast to be variable 2-3. I check my calculation again and determine that the best time for us to enter the Pentland Firth is 1530. We have breakfast, put away the inflatable and sail round to Widewall Bay where we wait for the time to pass. An hour later we are tucked inside the bay. The wind has dropped to no more than a whisper, so we raft all three boats on one anchor and sit down to discuss the meaning of life!

We also discuss Bill’s engine and decide to take a closer look at it. One spark plug has signs that it has not been working at all so another is fitted and bingo! It is now firing on two cylinders. The next hour is spent ‘ribbing’ Bill and exhausting every imaginable pun, much to the annoyance of Bill until he says, “OK, enough is enough!” So we drop the subject.

With the wind now gone completely I figure we should leave at 1500, so off we go. Wigeon now has the bow wave of a destroyer! Round two of the sick jokes and puns now that we are out of his reach.

The crossing is flat calm. Gavin gives us a call on the radio at one point to say that they have spotted a killer whale off the south tip of South Ronaldsay. I am reading 5 knots on the log and 9 knots over the ground and in no time we are passing Duncansby Head, then Noss Head at 1830 and eventually into Wick for 1930.

I am in bed by 2230.

Log Reading: 4515.2 total distance covered today 21.3 NM.

Friday 13th June
Everyone is up and about for 0700 and we are anxious to get on our way. Steve is leaving today, so I now have to sail single-handed on the way home.

By the time we sail out of the harbour it is after 0930. We have lost half the tide and although we are making good time at the start, we soon slow down as the tide weakens its influence in our direction. The wind is straight on the nose and although it has been forecast to be 3-4 it is a lot stronger than that. There is quite a heavy sea running and I have a fully reefed main and only half the foresail out, sailing close-hauled. God, this is hard work.

By the time we get to Clythe Head the tide has turned against us and the wind is now in excess of force 7, probably nearer 8. The waves are pounding against my bows and every time I get some headway a wave hits the boat and stops it almost completely. I sail for a good while but can see that the relative bearing on Clythe Head is remaining the same, so I decide to go on power. This too proves to be extremely difficult.

I can hear Gavin on the radio but I cannot let go the helm to answer him. I find out later that he is asking if we should pull into Lybster for a spot of lunch!

The wind is ferocious now; the only thing the forecast got right today was the bloody date! It takes me over three hours to go the two miles from Clythe Head to Lybster and the wind is still increasing.

Extremely glad to get into Lybster at 1430.

Sit in the pub (where else would one go?) and discuss the plan for tomorrow. If the wind has dropped sufficiently we will leave very early and try to get all the way home; if it is still windy we will settle for Helmsdale. Bill volunteers to get up at the crack of dawn and if conditions are right we will make as early a start as we can.

Do not have much to drink tonight as we are all pooped and ready for going home.

Log Reading: 4527.9 total distance covered today 12.7NM.

Saturday 14th June
Bill duly rises as first light comes in and, seeing that the wind has dropped completely, wakes the rest of us. I get a forecast from the radio: “winds light and variable”, 1-2. It’s either blowing so hard the seagulls are flying backwards or there is no wind at all. What a country we live in!

We are on our way by 0515, a good time as the tide is against us but is almost spent. In another hour it will be in our favour.

We resign ourselves to the fact that we are going to spend another day under power and set a course for home. The good thing about this kind of weather and having to motor when I am sailing single-handed, is that it’s a simple task to put the kettle on for a brew, but to tell the truth it is an extremely boring way of making headway.

Because the navigation is so simple in these conditions I tend to become a bit complacent about taking a fix or an estimated position (these are very familiar waters to me). I am relaxing at the helm watching the world go by when I am interrupted by the sound of Bill’s voice on the VHF, pointing out that he is running short of fuel. Polar Wind responds by suggesting we head for Portmahomack to replenish our supplies. I then suggest that the easiest option lies with calling in to Helmsdale as the tide would be fine for entering. This is unanimously agreed upon and the radios fall silent for a while. About ten minutes later I hear Rod saying, “Fat Sam, where are you going”?

“Helmsdale of course”, I reply.

“What’s that off to starboard then?” says Rod.

“Berriedale,” say I, with indignant confidence. “ I think not!” comes the cheeky reply.

I get out my binoculars and look at the town two miles off to starboard. My God, it is Helmsdale! I will never be allowed to live this down.

Rather than engage in further conversation (to make excuses would be futile), I simply alter course by 90 degrees to starboard and follow the transit line into the harbour. Any thoughts that they will be sympathetic and not raise the subject are quickly dispelled when they appear in the harbour entrance behind me…. Let’s just say they give me a lot of stick!

We quickly fill the cans with petrol and are back aboard the boats inside half an hour. We take a further fifteen minutes to make a cup of soup and a roll, then head back out into the Moray Firth at 0945.

There is still insufficient wind to sail so we continue to motor toward Tarbet Ness. Bill is obviously more confident with the extra petrol onboard and is well ahead of the others by the time we reach the Lighthouse at Tarbet Ness. Shortly after I pass the Point the wind gets up from north-east and I am able to fly the spinnaker again. This lasts until I am just passing the ‘Three Kings’.

Jock in Heart of Gold has come out to meet us and is sailing at first, but as he reaches me at the cardinal mark the wind dies again. Both he and I take down our sails to motor yet again. The tide has turned some time ago and the ebb is pushing us back. As I pass between the Sutors there is a sudden squall that brings with it a good wind which I could use to enter Cromarty in a blaze of glory with all sails up. To tell the truth I cannot be bothered and in any case nobody would notice. I carry on with the motor the last mile home.

It is a great feeling to have achieved our goals; an even greater feeling is spending the night in my own bed.

Log Reading: 4560.0 total distance covered today 32.1 NM.

Total Distance covered on the whole trip was 162 Nautical Miles.

Orkney or Bust! by George Selvester, 13 years in Cromarty.